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Truth in gourmet advertising - page 2 continued With a growing family, it wasn't easy keeping to typical chef's hours, which can easily run 12-14 hours a day, to say nothing of weekends and holidays. So they talked it over and decided it would be easier to open a retail store where they could cook what they knew and maintain a semblance of a normal family routine. They chose this Pine Brook location in the winter of 2003. It was an empty space when they found it, and Drew designed the kitchen and the shop itself, taking several months to get it right. They opened in July, and at this point, Rosemary cooks and Drew works the front of the store - but both say they're open to switching jobs at any time. Their training at the Four Seasons taught them to pull a lot of things out of a hat. The hotel's motto of providing anything a guest might want gave them a versatility that has served them well at the Fruited Plain. They got used to serving an international clientele, and loved the challenge. On any given day, you can find Ukrainian Borscht and New England clam chowder, Indonesian satay and Santa Fe chili on the store's menu. There are two or three fresh entrees daily, several accompaniments, six or seven salads and a slew of house-made deserts. There are also artisan breads and about 20 interesting cheeses. In the freezer case, dozens of frozen entrees, sides, hors d'oeuvres, soups, sauces and dips make dinner a breeze. For a quick bite, Drew will make you a sandwich to go, or try a wonderful pear haystack muffin ($1.25) dipped in butter, cinnamon and sugar while you shop, like I did. Catherine Citrano, Rosemary's mom, helps out in the kitchen, as does Alyssa Jenkins, an old friend of Rosemary and a CIA-trained pastry chef. As I write, I can tell you I'm craving the Sicilian chicken ($9.99 per pound) and the veal osso bucco - my two favorite dishes. The chicken is actually Citrano's recipe and a family favorite. Pieces of tender chicken on the bone with olives, apricots, figs and green peppercorns - a salty and sweet delight - are braised in their own liquid with brown sugar, red wine and thyme. Yum A stellar osso bucco ($17.99 per pound) is without doubt the finest I've had. Seasoned perfectly, with luscious marrow and sweet stewed vegetables, it is impossible to leave any on the plate. |
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The Fruited Plain | 48 Stiles Lane Pine Brook, New Jersey 07058 | 973-808-8862 |
